Good Job! Did you use your mirror again, or did you figure out some other way of “catching” them?
By far the most important thing with “super macro” stuff like this is stability. Everything has got to be rock-solid, or the picture is ruined. Even the act of depressing the shutter button is enough to completely blur the picture. The simplest way to get around that is to use your self-timer set to 2 seconds. That gives you enough time after pressing the shutter button for the vibrations to stop before the picture is taken. Or, if you want to be even more advanced, you invest in a cheap wireless remote. A wired one is better than nothing, but you’d be surprised how much movement can be transferred through a wire. A wireless remote doesn’t cost any much more than a wired one, so it’s really a no-brainer! (I paid $18.00 for mine, and they’re still about the same price.)
Keep us posted on how your “extension tubes” turn out! While PVC works very well for testing, I imagine that a $13 set of cheap extension tubes will pay for themselves pretty quickly. They make things a lot sturdier, and eliminate problems like light leaks.
Also, it is possible to buy a reversing ring that will take care of the same problems with light leaks and stability. You screw the adapter into your lens’s filter ring, then mount the adapter on your camera like you would any other lens. It’s actually quite easy! Sorry if this just sounds like a sales pitch, you would think Amazon was paying me to advertise for them! I’ve used all these accessories, so I know how handy they can be, that’s why I recommend them! And it’s not like they’re really expensive either. 🙂
One good thing about using only 1/100th of the lens… At least you’re using the sharpest part of it! Most lenses are the sharpest in the center of the frame, so you’re getting the best possible sharpness there, as far as that is concerned.