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@kina
Don’t freak out—we’ll get to the bottom of this one way or another 🙂The only thing that bothers me is that I’ve seen photos taken with even worse quality cameras than I have in similar light conditions that turned out crisp and non-grainy even when unedited. So I know that it’s possible, and that I should be able to get better pictures! And they were that grainy even when ISO was really low?? I really think something’s wrong with my lens
Kina, maybe the problem is related to your lens… but I don’t think it is (I could be wrong, as I’ve never even seen your lens!). But lenses don’t generally make things grainy… they can flatten colors, add ugly pink fringes, and have soft or distorted corners… but grain isn’t something that lenses typically add to images (unless you blew flour all over the front element).
I think the problem lies in how your camera—your technology—is trying work with the light given to it through the lens. I think the other problem lies in it being underexposed, which is related to your technique, as you’re working Manual (good for you, btw! I only just started!).A couple of things about noise… (wow, I like numbered lists!)
1. High ISO = more noise
You know this rule, and you are right! High ISOs WILL bring more noise in an image.But here’s noise rule number two
2. Noise loves to hang out in the dark places.
Unless the image is naturally dark (like your sister hiding in a broom closet), don’t be scared of raising ISO to properly expose the image. If it’s dark, it will be noisy. This can be remedied with noise reduction in post-processing.3. Noise loves RAW files!
RAW files straight out of the camera are noisier than JPEGs straight out of the camera, because the camera does some of the processing and puts a little noise reduction on if you shoot JPEG. If you shoot RAW, you’ll have a noisier image because the camera hasn’t done any editing for you. However, when YOU edit the image in Photos, you can add the perfect amount of noise reduction (and, with a little practice, you’ll make smarter choices than what your camera would have chose). Use the noise reduction filter in the edit menu.
Try shooting RAW+JPEG for a while too, so you can compare your edits with that of your cameras (but a word of advice—don’t import the JPEGs and RAWs together in Apple Photos).4. Noise is natural. Don’t let it get you down. Embrace it and focus on composition.
I was watching a lens review video, and the guy who was shooting it had a really good point. Nobody walks up to an image in a gallery and says “I love this image because… it’s so sharp! even in the corners!” (https://youtu.be/mQSuexEQcgM). In the same way, no one walks up to an image and says “I love this image because it’s not noisy!” Composition is key, and a little noise won’t kill an image with great technique and great composition. A lot of noise, maybe—but a little noise isn’t something to worry too much about.As far as White Balance adjusting is concerned, yes! That’s mainly how we get rid of the ugly yellow! And that’s an easy half the battle on getting a great shot.
This sounds so amateur, but… it’s not a setting on the camera, right?? Is it kind of like exposure? Or is it a computer editing setting?? If it’s a setting on the camera, (or a combination…) how would I adjust it? How would I know what a good White Balance is?
White Balance is one of the few settings on both the camera and the editor! I can change mine on my Canon 60D by going into the menus, or by pushing the button that says Q for quick menu and navigating to the white balance setting (which for you should say AWB as it’s the default setting). Different types of lights have different shades of color (halogen or incandescent bulbs are more yellowy, while fluorescent light is more blue. Daylight is somewhat in the middle). You want to pick a white balance that corresponds with the type of lights you’re shooting under. If you’re under clouds, put it on cloudy. If you’re under fluorescent tubes, put it on fluorescent. I personally leave mine on Auto, as the camera gets it right ninety percent of the time.
Also, it’s one of the only settings that you retain full control over in a RAW file (you can’t change your shutter speed, aperture number, or ISO after the fact in Photos or any editor). If your camera misses the right white balance (or you leave the wrong preset on), you can take your RAW file into Photos, go into the Adjustment panel, and you can adjust your white balance with the color picker (put it on something ideally grey, but if that’s not available, white or black) or with the temp/tint sliders.Persevere and keep on learning!
—@loganlamar
I’ve so enjoyed catching up on this thread!
I was so tempted to switch it to Sports, and maybe I should have, but I was stubborn and wanted to bear through with Manual.
Good for you Kina!
Just a couple things to add:
2. Don’t be afraid of raising your ISO
Of course the rule is “as low as possible, as high as necessary”, but the main reason we have a reasonable amount of flexibility with ISO these days is because it can be somewhat removed in post.
3. Watch your shutter speed. Make sure it’s fast enough to freeze your movement and the movement of your subject.
Yes, make sure it’s fast enough, but it’s amazing how slow it can be too. 1/160 is a good starting point, but I’m still going to maximize it as much as possible, by shooting “as slow as possible, as high as necessary”.
Our eyes are incredible, and God made them to automatically adjust to color temperature changes,
The more I study photography, the more amazed I become at the incredibleness of our eyes. God is SUCH an incredible designer!!
And, in answer to a couple of your later questions:
* This visually helps me understand how metering modes work: https://digital-photography-school.com/cheat-sheet-understand-metering-modes-camera/
* Yes, Spot Metering is one of several different metering modes. Here’s how to change it on a T6 https://ditchauto.com/metering-modes-on-canon-rebel-t6i/
* Probably the best way to know whether it is actually as much of a lens issue as you feel it could be, is to run some low-light still-life tests.
* Yes, it is normal for low-light images to have that grainy, sandpaper look. For folks who don’t appear to get as much grain, perhaps you were looking at their camera’s LCD screen, whereas for your shots you are looking on them on a monitor? My photos always look more grainy once they’re pulled up on a screen.By the way, what retreat were you attending?
@Loganlamar Not freaking out over here!! God is too good. 😀
This is really interesting and helpful. Thanks for all your help, by the way. 😀 Mmm, good points! Yeah, that was the problem with my first camera.#2. Oh yes, true! But if you raise the ISO, it’s going to be brighter, right? Even if it’s brighter, with it’s a high ISO, can’t it be grainy?
#3. I didn’t know that! But it makes sense!
#4. Well, actually, maybe it’s just because this is my biggest problem (I think) at the moment, but I actually do judge photos by how grainy they are. I actually would walk up to a photo and say (in my head) “This is not a good photo because it’s too grainy.” 😀 And also, my last camera made the edges of all (every one!) of its photos blurry, so I’m very particular about the edges of all photos. LOL. 😀 Sharpness is actually a maker or breaker for me! 😀
THANK YOU for explaining White Balance! I will make it a priority to learn that on my camera before… Friday! Now that you mention it, I know what you’re talking about. And yes, that is right! I forgot about that edit setting!! Thank you! (Later – I just edited one of the retreat photos with it, and it turned out pretty nice!)
@jamesstaddon Thank you for the good reinforcement. 😀 I need to remember these things! 😀 Thank you so much for the articles too! I’m a visual learner so the first one was especially helpful.So, with evaluative metering, does it prioritize whatever manual point is selected?
Oh, that is a good thought. Actually, I was thinking about the pictures from the Scriptorium (the event I’m shooting this week) that were taken last year. The person who took them (unable to attend this year) had a basic and old model camera, and although they weren’t ‘awe-inspiring,’ exactly, they were really good! I saw them on the screen they played the slideshow on. 😀
It was the retreat that Allison Bontrager runs in Iowa. I don’t think it has a name! 😀 It was really good. 😀 Do y’all know the Bontragers?
@kina,
I think Allison calls them the Young Women’s Retreats. 🙂 I’m familiar with the Bontrager family (actually, they’ll be close to my family’s neck of the woods in a few weeks), and from what I’ve heard about the retreat, it sounds like a wonderful event! I’m glad you were able to attend and get some event photography experience at the same time!I don’t have time to explain everything, but I want to thank those who helped me out here. I just did the Scriptorium photos, and they turned out great! I gained a lot of confidence, and took a group photo of 170 people in record time! 😀 Although of course they are not absolutely perfect, this conversation helped me to be happy with the pictures I took, and the tips helped me to take them so much faster. Thanks! 😀
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