Home › Forums › Photo Critique › HDR sunset
- This topic has 22 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 3 months ago by
Caitlin Compton.
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July 13, 2018 at 8:13 am #32047
John MachenParticipantHaha, @creative-click-photography. That is funny isn’t it! I actually live on the water so yeah I’ve been doing a lot of swimming. 🙂 It’s also interesting that we’re in completely opposite time zones. Just curious, have you ever been to the U.S. before?
July 16, 2018 at 1:46 pm #32105
James StaddonKeymasterI was wondering why this [not taking more than one HDR per sunrise/sunset] would be the case – is it because it takes more time?
For the most part, yes. HDR requires a tripod. I’ll usually “work the scene” handheld, and when I find the spot I like best, I’ll set up the tripod and shoot the scene correctly. If the best color hasn’t disapeared yet by then, I’ll maybe go for a second or third angle, or shoot other subjects around. But also for me because of the sheer number of pictures….if I bracketted 5 shots for each “working the scene” shot, I’d end up with 5 times the amount of pictures on my hard drive. Most of those scouting shots I never use. I just took them to find the best angle anyway (though, often in processing, I find some of my scouting shots better than “the one” I thought was going to look best, so I still try to take good scouting shots). 🙂
Also, I was wondering what happens when it’s really windy. Obviously the de-ghosting can help with that, but can it remove all the blur? If it’s super windy or there’s a lot of motion from a person etc. does it mean that you can’t do a HDR?
Yes, de-ghosting will help with that. And yes, either HDR is impossible or you would just need to adjust your exposure settings to make the shutter speed as fast as possible, even for the brightest of your bracketted shots.
How do you get your camera to bracket 5 photos at once? Mine does 3 at the moment – is there a setting that I need to change somewhere or do you do it manually?
Mine only does 3 too. 🙂 I do the 5-photo, 2-stop-apart bracketing manually.
Hey, Caitlin, since you are a PRO member, if you have more questions like this and want to talk about it instead of write about it, I would not mind doing a personal coaching call with you for free if you’d like. We could just use Google Hangouts or something.
July 21, 2018 at 10:24 pm #32275
Caitlin ComptonParticipantNo, @hayhand02, I haven’t been to the US. . . yet. 🙂 I really want to, though. Hopefully one day!
July 21, 2018 at 10:26 pm #32276
Caitlin ComptonParticipantThanks for answering those questions, @jamesstaddon! That was really helpful.
since you are a PRO member, if you have more questions like this and want to talk about it instead of write about it, I would not mind doing a personal coaching call with you for free if you’d like.
Thanks for offering! I would be happy to do that! I mean, I only have 2 more questions that I can think of right now regarding the actual taking of the HDR image side of things. So I don’t know if you would rather answer them here or chat about them.
I was wondering how doing it manually works. I understand how it works, but I was wondering how it works. 😉 Like when you have your camera set on the 3 photo bracketing, with 3 clicks of the finger your done – the photos are taken without much time in-between. Your camera chooses the settings for you. But if you were manually setting each exposure there would be an amount of time in-between each of the 5 images which would obviously open up your images to have more blur or whatever. So it still works ok?
You said you do 2-stop-apart bracketing, so do you change the aperture? How would that work though changing the depth of field when your blending them together?
July 23, 2018 at 1:14 pm #32295
James StaddonKeymasterNo worries, posting your questions here as they come up is good too! I just wanted to make sure you were getting timely answers, and didn’t feel like you had to write them all out if you didn’t want to.
So! About the howof a 5-bracket exposure. Yes, there is definitely more of a chance of slight misalignment between each frame. However I don’t think there’s any way around it, without fancy tools or what not. 🙁
What I do to reduce the amount of misalignment as much as possible is to use Manual mode and only change the shutter speed between each shot. So, I’ll underexposure by 4 stops, shoot that (using a remote or the 2-sec timer), carefully spin the dial that changes the shutter speed to underexposure by 2 stops, shoot that, and so on.
When I’m doing this on a sturdy tripod, there’s almost no problem at all. If I have the tripod set up in a precarious or less study way, sometimes pressing the palm of my left hand down on the top of the hot shoe before spinning the dial with my right hand may help cause the camera not to be accidentally moved or jiggled when taking the action of spinning the dial (if that makes any sense). I have no proof if this is actually more helpful than it is harmful, but it does help me feel less stressed out about spinning the dial (one of the dials on my camera is a little stiffer than maybe is usual, which is why sometimes when I spin it I see it visibly shake the camera a bit). 🙂
So, generally, I bracket using shutter speed, not aperture. If the shutter speed gets too slow for the lighter exposures, then I would probably use the ISO to bracket, (though I’ve never actually done this in the field yet).
July 24, 2018 at 12:52 am #32313
Caitlin ComptonParticipantThanks for your quick responses, @jamesstaddon. Your answers are really helpful.
Just one quick clarification … So you’d do 5 exposures that are 2 stops apart. So that’d be one exposure 4 stops below what would be the correct exposure, one 2 stops below normal, a normal one, one 2 stops above normal and finally one 4 stops above normal. Is that right? 🙂
Thanks again! I really appreciate your help!
July 24, 2018 at 2:18 pm #32321
James StaddonKeymasterThat is correct!
July 24, 2018 at 7:19 pm #32327
Caitlin ComptonParticipantAwesome!
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