@austinvinar
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Just so you know, you don’t have to shoot raw. I don’t and know of another professional who doesn’t. With jpeg you need to nail your exposure, but shouldn’t we anyway? And honestly, I like the way my jpegs turn out better. I may shoot a RAW or two under certain circumstances, but that is it.
I would think I could edit 200 in 30 minutes. But I don’t process every photo I keep. Just the best that I plan on using in the near future. I use faststone to edit and rename, Windows Explorer to tag, and Lightroom to process.
There is no comparison. MM is an exact measurement that remains relatively equal across cameras. X zoom is simply what it sounds like. I have a 150-600mm lens. It is a 4x zoom. Yet a 10-100mm is a 10x zoom. A 10-200mm is a 20x zoom. Simple multiplication. Otherwise I wouldn’t understand it. 🙂
It also works for marketing. They can advertise a 5-200mm lens as having 40x zoom. Yet you barely have enough to shoot wildlife.
A prime 800mm lens has 0x zoom, because it doesn’t zoom.
Let me know if I can explain it farther.
Austin
I often open my camera up in the cold to swap a cold battery for a warm one. Never had any problems.
In agreement as far as condensation goes. I have a heavy plastice sleeve that I can fit my 600mm lens in. Once inside, I place it over the furnace duct to speed up the warming process so my camera is not tied up forever. If I’m working in a vehicle, or out of one, I keep it cold inside as long as I’m shooting. Ive found that it I’m done shooting I can crank the heat on and it heats up slow enough that the camera won’t fog up.
Also, you will find problems if you open the door of a warm building or vehicle and try to shoot out. The warm air rushing out will distorting the picture. I also try to shut a vehicle off to keep engine heat from distorting the pictures.
Try not to breathe on your viewfinder as that will fog easily.
Autofocus will slow down when it gets cold but I’ve never heard of anything getting ruined. I’ve worked out to about -30 without any problems.
Keeping yourself warm is a lot bigger problem. If it is below zero you can hardly dress too warm, actually, you probably can’t. Learn to work your buttons with a heavy pair of mittens on. Taking them off will freeze them. I’ve found a handwarmer nice at times.
Happy shooting, Austin
I would not buy a lens for wildlife that did not have IS. Wildlife is most active when the light is at its lowest. Stabilization is needed. I considered that lens too. But turned it down for that reason. I got my Sigma for $700, barely used.
I see. Here a few shots from the Sigma…
I’ve been shooting primarily wildlife for a few years now, and the purchase of the Sigma last November revolutionized my work.
Attachments:
I guess it depends on what your definition of a lot of noise is. I shoot iso 800 most of the time with the older 7D and have not had any problems. But then I have seen someone take a picture that I thought was very acceptable and call it too noisy.
Honestly, I took a shot with my 7D at ISO 3200 pushed it a full stop in Lightroom, and sold it as the beginning shot for an article. I likely worked a bit with noise reduction but I would call ISO 500 a low ISO.
Hmmm. Not sure why it isn’t real sharp. You have your stabilization on right?
Try microadjusting, it won’t hurt anything.
I’m using the 7D, so it shouldn’t be the camera’s problem.
I have had this lenses af keep up with grouse flying straight at me. In cold temps.
