@nateb
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You’re welcome, ma’am! Glad I could help!
(Btw, VR is called IS {or Image Stabilisation} in Canon’s terminology. {Almost every brand has their own term for it.} I just looked up the lenses you use. If I’m not mistaken, your 18-55mm has it, but you 75-300 doesn’t {please correct me if I’m wrong}. Which is rather unfortunate, cuz it’s a lot more necessary on your big lens. Since your 75-300mm doesn’t seem to have IS, I think your best bet is either to up your ISO a little so you can use a shutter speed that’s high enough to prevent camera shake or to use a tripod.)
Sorry, @loewfam, I didn’t see your comment before I posted mine. I guess it depends where you live. Here we have a lot of really sunny days, so 1/500 at f5.6 is often not an issue, but that might not be the case where @kansasgirl lives
Alright, I’m not sure then why your pics would be dark, cuz f/5.6 with a 1/500 shutter speed should often give you a good pic (assuming you do mostly outdoor shooting). Looking through some of the outdoor pics I took with my T6 (I use an EOS R now, but I was just looking at my T6 pics, since that would be more like the camera you use) and plenty of my pics were taken with a shutter speed of 1/500 or faster and I wouldn’t say they’re too dark (on cloudy days my shutter speed was lower, like 1/160 or even lower sometimes). But how about trying a slightly lower shutter speed? Another question (and this might be your solution), what do you have the light metering set to? I think if you set that to Evaluative, then set the shutter speed according to what the light meter shows, your pics will look more like you want them to
Hi! Without seeing the camera, it’s not quite as easy to know what you need to change, but what aperture and shutter speed do you use?
Would cloud storage interest you? I store my photos on iCloud (idk what kind of devices you use, but iCloud is really handy if you use Apple devices. Otherwise you’d want to use some other cloud). The disadvantage of cloud storage is that you have to pay a monthly subscription, so in the long run a hard drive (or DAS) would probably be cheaper in most cases. There are a few companies (Koofr, Internxt) that offer a lifetime licence. A lifetime license can be rather expensive, but if you look on stacksocial.com you can often find pretty good deals. I haven’t used external storage much, so idk which of the options you mentioned would be preferable, but I just thought I’d mention cloud storage as an alternative, since that’s what I use. One disadvantage of cloud storage though is that you need an internet connection in order to upload/access the files/photos. Which probably isn’t really a problem in most cases, but might be sometimes. Cloud storage works well for me, but possibly someone else has more advice on what would be your best option
I wouldn’t say so. I myself made the switch a little under a year ago and there are a few differences, but basically, there isn’t really any difference in how they operate. DSLRs have an optical viewfinder, whereas mirrorless have an electronic viewfinder, but I think that’s the main diff you’ll notice. Oh, come to think of it, the controls will also be a little different than what you’re used to, but that would also be the case if you’d get a pro series DSLR. But as to which setting(s) you’ll need to change to get a good pic, etc, that remains the same. It’ll take a little while (only a very little while) to figure out exactly how to operate it, but since you’re sticking with the same brand you started with, it’ll still be pretty simple. Of course, there’s always more to learn (I myself still have a lot to learn, too), but what I’m trying to say is that you’ll get the basics down pat in short order. The differences between the one you’ve used till now and the one you wanna get lie more in the fact that you’ll be jumping from an entry level camera to a pro series than that you’ll be switching to mirrorless, if you get what I mean.
(A while after my last post I realised that I may have misinterpreted what you said, but whatever the case, you have my opinion there and I don’t think it’d take any guesswork to figure out what I think😊)
All three are really good cameras, the best of them being the R6 (which you probably already know). So that’s obviously the one I’d recommend the most, but personally, I’d take an R8 before an RP. You can decide for yourself what you want, but I’d say the R8 is the better of the two
Hi there! I have a Canon EOS R and I really like it. Would totally recommend it, but what exactly are you looking for? There are quite a few cameras in the R line by now. Based on what you said in the last paragraph, I would assume you’d probably looking for an entry-level camera?
I use Luminar Neo, another program with the option of a perpetual license (and it’s got an 81% discount at present). I think you can use the program without a WiFi connection, but I’m not sure. I can’t remember that I’ve ever used it when my MacBook wasn’t connected, so I might be mistaken. But I’ll check it later on, during lunch break or after work. Or maybe someone else already knows and could inform you on that. As to which program is better, I don’t know. I like Luminar Neo, but I also liked Affinity when I used it (when I had a Windows laptop I bought a license for Affinity Photo, but when I switched to Mac, I would have had to repurchase it, so I switched to Luminar Neo. I’d say they’re both great, but I don’t do a whole lot of photo editing, so perhaps there are others who could give you a better idea on which one would suit you best. But I will say that I think you can do more with Affinity Photo than you can with Luminar Neo, although I could be mistaken there too, not having used Affinity Photo for several years now
Thanks, @abigail16. Btw, I hope I didn’t sound too fault-finding in my first reply. I mentioned what I thought could be improved on, but failed to mention the strong points of your photo(s).🙈 But if I’d said what I liked about your photos, what I would have said would match closely with what Logan said, so I s’pose there’s not much point in me trying to do it now, cuz it’d mostly be a repeat of what he said
Thanks for the correction, @loganlamar. I’d forgotten about the aperture trick, never having used it myself. Although I’ve never used a sparkle filter either, I’ve seen pics taken using a sparkle filter and when I saw these pics I immediately assumed that’s what she used. But now that you mention it, I can see the difference, in the second pic at least
Here are two pics I took. I must admit that the rays aren’t as even in my pics as they are in yours. 🙂 I don’t know exactly what you like, but they’re a sample of what sun rays can look like. Feel free to critique my pics and don’t be scared to give me your opinion.
P. S. Very likely some others on this forum have better pics than mine. I showed you what I could, but I haven’t photographed sun rays much. Hopefully someone can show you some better samples than mineAttachments:
Just stating my own opinion here, but I’d say that real sun rays look better than rays made with a sparkle filter. The rays look too artificial, if you know what I mean. I agree that sun rays look great, but imo they need to be real in order to look good. Don’t get me wrong, if you like the looks of sparkle filter sun rays, go for it. I don’t mind. Like I said, this is just my own opinion. Personally, I’d say sparkle filters are made for photographing Christmas lights and other lights of similar style, but different people have different likes. My preference would be to wait till the rays are actually visible without any additional equipment and photograph that. Yes, I know, the most likely time for the rays to be visible is when you aren’t prepared or are preoccupied and can’t photograph them. But such is life for a photographer. You gotta take the chance when it comes. I thought I had taken some sun ray pics, but a hasty search through my pics resulted in a negative. Perhaps I’ll do a more thorough search soon.
